When you see the name Chi Chi, you might initially think that since it’s located in swank and sophisticated Palm Springs, the pronunciation would be “shee-shee,” but you’d be incorrect.
Pronounced “chee-chee,” the restaurant is part al-fresco dining and part roofed open dining, incorporating woven basket lights overhead.
The tables are fairly high and the seating relatively low.
We ordered a dazzling array of items from the lunchtime menu, which were easily and quickly devoured.
Take the roasted cauliflower — a dish that, if you closed your eyes and began nibbling, conjures up the consistency and texture of meat without the fat. Cheese, pickled purple onions and toasted bread crumbs add to the allure, along with a goodly sprinkling of capers. Dip a floweret into the garlic chili aioli and you could easily see this dish as a main item to savor.
The ahi tuna poke was a colorful amalgam of organic and partly crunchy brown rice, cubed avocado, sushi-grade ahi with a kiss of heat, kaiware sprouts, furikake (a blend of flaked dry fish, chopped seaweed and sesame seeds) and Japanese cucumber slices, all tossed with a ginger shoyu.
The wasabi tobiko was absent from the dish, as they had run out of the tobiko earlier. A scattering of fried garlic added texture and flavor intensity. It was a beautiful rendition of the Hawaiian classic, gussied up with Japanese ingredients.
The fall salad, which fortunately was carried over into the winter season, consisted of cubed, roasted Tahitian squash, heirloom carrots, wheat berries (tiny and seed-like), dried cranberries, pumpkin seeds, goat cheese and wild arugula — beautiful colors and multitextural, with outstanding, fresh-from-the-garden flavors.
We particularly enjoyed the pork belly fried rice that was distinctly smoky with an undercurrent of heat from Korean chili- flecked kimchi. Fried garlic, scallions and chopped, crisp pork belly dotted the organic brown rice, and a poached egg topped the dish. It was a lovely, boldly flavored creation drawing from a number of Asian cultures.
The next item was the turkey burger. It sounds mundane at first blush, yet the meat was both moist and flavorful, unlike most renditions, which are dry and tasteless. Not using extremely lean meat helps, and the accompanying grilled purple onions and smoked tomato jam added immensely to the overall flavor profile. The burger came on a whole-wheat bun scattered with wild arugula and accompanied by fries.
Finally, we ordered Lupe’s tacos — two medium-size, folded, blue corn tortillas containing very tender marinated flank steak, chicharrones to add some crunch, sliced cactus and a dollop of guacamole and drizzled with salsa verde and garnished with papalo leaves, a Mexican herb reminiscent of cilantro and arugula. The flavor profile was dynamic, but the taco began to fall apart when you bit into it. Using two tortillas would easily remedy the situation.
In summary, Chi Chi offers an array of distinctive dishes with unusual ingredients. Much thought is given to eye appeal as well as contrasting textures. It’s definitely worth a trip to the desert.
David Cohen is a freelance dining critic and food co-editor for Inland Empire Magazine. Send him email at dcohen4@verizon.net and follow him on Twitter @dcfoodfiles.
Chi Chi
Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)
Address: Avalon Hotel, 415 S. Belardo Road, Palm Springs
Information: 760-318-3005, www.avalon-hotel.com/palm-springs/dining/chi-chi
Cuisine: Seasonal California
Ambiance: Casual, pool-like
Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: $12-$16 starters, $12-$18 salads, $16-$19 entrees.
Details: Full bar. Indoor seating and outdoor al fresco seating.
Recommended dishes: Roasted cauliflower ($14), ahi tuna poke ($17), pork belly fried rice ($16)
Cards: All majors
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